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Traduzione
di Giuseppina L. Zisa
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Vittoria
(55,280 residents in 1991) rises at 168 metres above sea level. Its
territory spreads out over a surface of 181 km2 comprehended between the
37th parallel of latitude and the 14,5th parallel of longitude.
The most elevated point is Mount Calvo at 250 meters above sea level;
east of the city runs the Ippari River. This river (with a course of about
20 km from Cifali to the sea) debouches near Cammarana, widening with
difficulty through the sands of the coastline.
THE
FOUNDATION
Vittoria
founded at the beginning of the 17th century was the last of the settlements
of the old County of Modica that covered much of the territory now belonging
to the Province of Ragusa.
The City was founded as part of a great process of colonization of new
lands and founding of new villages carried out by the nobility of the
Island between 1500-1700. In this specific case, it turned out to be an
intelligent long-term investment suggested by a few county administrators
to the feudatory, the Countess Vittoria Colonna (1558-1633) teacher of
the son of the Count of Modica, Giovanni Alfonso Enriques Cabrera (1596-1647).
The new agglomerate, which overlooks the magnificent valley furrowed by
the Ippari, develops on the boundaries of an area inhabited for millenniums:
in fact, in the surroundings of the primitive nucleus of the City (under
and near the so-called "Castello" - the castle) there are traces
of prehistorical settlements dating back to the Bronze Era, to the Greeks,
Romans and Byzantines.
Also, along the coastlines, near the outlet of the Ippari River, in the
area of the antique swamp the Greek city of Kamarina was founded as a
sub Colony of the Doric Syracuse (VI century A.C.).
The actual suburb of Scoglitti, whose name can be dated back to the Dark
Ages, spreads out near the great northern necropolis of Kamarina.
Top
Il
Castello (ex Prison) and the Magazzini del Conte.
An
ideal tourist route should begin in the area of the primitive foundation,
that in the surroundings of the so-called Castello (ex prison) that today
houses the Polyvalent Civic Museum.
Its construction began on March 4, 1607; it underwent numerous remodellings
towards 1640, at the end of the 18th century, and from 1816 on, when it
was converted into a prison.
Next to the building stand the so-called "Magazzini del Conte",
the old offices where the fees ("wheat" taxes) were paid.
The
Ancient Church of S. Giovanni (at the Trinity),
Only
a few metres away it is possible to visit what's left of the ancient Church
of San Giovanni, whose construction began on March 6, 1607.
Damaged by the earthquake of 1693, it way afterwards abandoned. The ancient
church covered the entire area of the square. The actual Chapel still
conserves the ancient portal and a baptismal fountain that dates back
to 1612.
La Chiesa Madre (the Mother
Church) (Piazza Vescovo Ricca).
Immediately
after it is possible to visit the New Church dedicated to San Giovanni
(St. John) that was built between 1695-1706, thanks to the generous offerings
of the community, and consecrated in 1734. Its interior, divided in two
naves, is rich is marbles, gildings, stuccowork, statues and frescos.
A valuable monument is the "moresco" dome, constructed according
to the plan of the Architect Giuseppe di Bartolo Morselli between 1850-1854.
The church is elevated by a flight of steps almost as wide as the whole
façade; it has three portals, the central one has a central arch
surmounted by an escutcheon.
In order to rapidly identify all of the preserved chapels and monuments,
we think it's best to begin with the Baptismal Fountain, decorated with
a huge portrait that represents the "Baptism of Christ" by an
unknown artist. The portrait, in the style of Caravaggio, can be dated
around 1700.
Next follow the Chapel of the Rosary (with a portrait of the Madonna of
Pompei, by Giuseppe La Lota 1900); the Chapel of the Madonna of Mercede
(with a 19th century painting by an unknown artist); the funerary monument
of Francesco Leni (1759-1818); the Chapel of the Holy Family (first located
at the Annunciation) with a beautiful marble bas-relief, a work by the
sculptor Salvatore Sciacco (1898); the Chapel of the Christ at the Column;
the funerary monument of Salvatore Ricca (1810); the Altar of the Lady
of the Carmel.
The Chapel of the Blessed Heart (Sacro Cuore) shelters the "Transit
of Mary" (1874- Giuseppe
Mazzone).
In
the same chapel there is another great painting (also in the style of
the Caravaggio) that portrays the "Decapitation of the John the Baptist"
under which lays a marble slab with wooden and silver inlays (a work by
the arch. Giuseppe Areddia) which covers the remains of the founder, Vittoria
Colonna, brought to the City in 1990 from the Church of St. Francis of
Medina de Rioseco in Spain (where they first rested).
The presbytery with the high altar, elevated in comparison to the church
floor, has a beautiful balustrade in polychromatic marble. At the end
of the apsidal stands a monumental altar in read marble dedicated to Saint
Agatha.
At the centre hangs a painting of a renaissance artist depicting the Madonna
with the Infant. The niche over the alter shelters a wooden statue of
the Saint (a work in vizzini style) with a golden cane, donated by Don
Giovanni Ciani in 1777.
The vault of the high altar depicts a series of the moments of the life
of the Baptist (the saint before Erode a work of Emanuele Catanese an
artist from Gela - 1861; the "Decapitation of the Baptist, work of
the priest Gaetano DiStefano 1859; and paintings of Mazzone and Provenzani
("The Four Evangilists") and of Mazzone ("The Last Supper").
The polychromatic pavement dates back to 1801 with its inlays, 2 vases,
one containing withered vines and bunches of grapes, the other containing
blooming vines and grape bunches, it wants to remember the Dry Plague
of 1798.
The Choir, decorated on each side by 8 high stalls and 7 low anteriors,
is a work of Emanuele Poidomani - 1890.
The Chapel of the Holy Cross contains a "Mourning of the Dead Christ"
work attributed to the artistic workshop of Caravaggio; a "Deposition"
by an unknown artist (1725); an "Immaculate" of Mazzone (1869).
Following are the Tomb of the Bishop Ferdinando Ricca; the Altar of the
Cross;
The Chapel of the Immaculate; the Chapel of St. James and St. Lucia which
shelters the funerary monument of Jacopo Giudice; the Chapel St. Rosalia
(with a statue of the Saint); the Chapel of St. Barbara (with a huge oil
painting of Stefano Ragazzi - Modica - 1759 and an altar in polychromatic
marble with the Nativity); the Chapel of the Lady of Sorrows that creates
an apside on the outside of the Church on Via Carlo Alberto.
This last chapel shelters a painting by Domenico Provenzani (1883) and
numerous relics. Lastly there is the funerary monument of Mario Pancari
Leni (a work of Benedetto Delisi 1875.
The Sacristy conserves portraits of parishes and archpriests of the Basilica.
There are 21 portraits (almost all works by unknown artists) dating from
1640 - 1978.
Even though not exhibited, the huge canvas called "Taledda"
of Giuseppe Mazzone (1861) belongs to the works of art stored in the Church;
it originally hung over the high altar during the Passion period. This
painting in monochromatic technique, measures 17 meters in height and
7,65 meters in width. It depicts 43 figures gathered around the scene
of "The Martyrdom of Christ".
Finally, in the centre nave it is possible to admire a precious organ
(work of the priest Donato del Piano - 1748) and a wooden pupil, a work
of the Mastro Carmelo d'Asta.
The
Town Theatre "Vittoria Colonna" (Il Teatro Comunale - Piazza
del Popolo)
The
centre of the city is the Piazza del Popolo.
Here stand the beautiful Town Theatre of Neo-classical style (1871-1877)
and the 18th century church of the "Lady of the Blessings" ("Madonna
delle Grazie").
The theatre was designed in 1863 by the architect Giuseppe di Bartolo
Morselli (1815-1865), a neoclassic exponent, but it was internally remodelled
by the Engineer Giuseppe Mazzarella.
It's façade has two orders of columns that form the portico and
the upper loggia; side niches; the upper part is crowned by statues of
the Apollo and of the Diana.
Considered valuable are the statues (works of Corrado Leone), the gildings
(of Cappellani) and overall the paintings of Giuseppe Mazzone (1838-1880),
true glory of Vittoria, who decorated the medallions depicting the great
musicians, the ceiling in the hall and the figures of the proscenium ("The
Tradegy" and "The Commedy").
Giuseppe Mazzone decorated the vault of the theatre: an interlaced dance
of Cupids and a fluttering of laces in loud greens and violent shades
that give life to the composition.
The
Church and the Convent of the Blessings (Piazza del Popolo)
Next
to the Theatre stands the "Lady of the Blessings" ("Madonna
delle Grazie"). On February 7, 1619 the "secreto" Paolo
Custereri was buried here; therefore at that date the church must have
been almost completed, while the annexed convent results to have been
given to the church with a notary act dating January 5, 1638.
The façade is elevated by baseboard and a stairway that circumscribed
to the central portal ends with a round arch, crowned by an escutcheon
of angels.
The church contains numerous works of art, many or which are generous
donations.
The interior has only one nave. Beginning at the left it is possible to
admire a chapel dedicated to Saint Elisabeth of Hungary; following is
the chapel dedicated to Saint Anthony of Padova; the third chapel is dedicated
to the Blessed Heart of Jesus; next there is the pulpit, a work of Pietro
Tagliazucchi of Carrara and finally there are the Chapels of Saint Anne
and of the Immaculate.
The high altar holds at its centre a large oval painting depicting the
Lady of the Blessings between Saint John and Saint Francis of Assisi (of
caravaggio style).
In the Sacristy, the huge and precious walnut wardrobe is still preserved
a work of Carmelo d'Asta (with the 4 Evanglists and St, Francis in relief).
At the right of the nave, in succession, are the chapels of: the Crucifix
(with an oval of the Lady of Sorrows); St. Francis of Assisi; the Lady
of the Light (school of the Borremans, a work of particular beauty and
of special workmanship). The above works are datable around 1736. Then
come the Chapel of the Souls of Purgatory with a big painting of the Almighty;
St. Teresa; St. John and the souls of Purgatory.
The last chapel is that of St. Rocco.
Numerous other paintings ornate the church (some works of unknown artists);
among these, one depicts St. Anthony (by Sebastiano Alotti, an artist
of "refined formal and pictorial research"). The Chapel of St.
Anne contains a canvas depicting Saint Anne and Saint Gioachino with the
Immaculate, a work of the Modican artist Antonino Manoli (1717); a "Lady
of Sorrows"; a "St. Lucia" and a "St. Agatha"
in prison and in chains (of the school of Pietro Novelli).
War
Memorials (Piazza del Popolo)
A
part of the square is occupied by a Peace Memorial dedicated to the fallen
in all wars (work of the architect Giuseppe Areddita (1981). In 1997 the
War Memorial was removed from the City Park and brought back to its original
site where it had stood until 1964 (Turillo Sindoni - inaugurated in 1930).
The other churches.
7.1
St. Blaize (San Biagio - Piazza Giordano Bruno)
The Church is the heart of the homonymous neighbourhood. Important since
the origins are the cult for the Lady of Loreto and for Saint Gaetano,
portrayed on canvas by the artist Gaetano Di Stefano from Chiaramonte
Gulfi (1809'1896). In the 20th century the cult for Saint Rita prevailed
over that for St. Blaze.
This is represented by an oil painting by an unknown artist. Other paintings
depict a "Lady of the Carmel"; a "Lady of Loreto";
a "Holy Family (originally belonging to the Mother Church and donated
in 1877 by the notary Filippo Neri Maltese).
Next to the Church stands the ancient "College of Mary" founded
in 1732 that housed the Gymnasium-Classical Lace for a century and now
houses the "Don Milani Junior High-School".
St. Joseph (San Giuseppe - Via Gaeta)
The
Church dates back to the decade 1681-1691. It is of great architectural
simplicity, enriched by a multicoloured bell tower; its interior is entirely
covered by stuccos of the school of Serpotta (precisely of "Gianforma").
Noteworthy is the canvas of Mazzone entitled "The Holy Family"
1871.
A large oil painting called "The Transit of St. Joseph" of Antonio
Scologna - "Sicilian caravaggio" (Campo) dates back to 1677.
Another painting depicts the "Lady in Chains", a work of Giuseppe
LaLota (late 19th century).
A wooden statue of an uncertain saint is preserved in the Sacristy.
Little
jewels are:
The Church of St. Francis of Paola (Piazza Indipendenza).
Completed
in 1727, it is frescoed with the stories of St. Francis of Paola (unknown
artist of the 18th century).
The Church also shelters two wooden statues of the Saint that may belong
to the 18th century; an oil painting depicting St. Michael the Archangel
and other canvases of unknown artists of the 18th century.
The pulpit has been recently restored thanks to the City Administration.
St.
Paul (San Paolo - Via Palestro, ang. La Marmora)
The
Church seems to have been completed in 1727. It is possible to admire
two canvases of unknown artists, one of which depicts the "Conversion
of St. Paul", and the other that represents the "Crucifixion".
Both probably belong to the 18th century. Vito Melodia, in 1922, painted
the medallions on the vault of the apsidal basin.
The Cappuccini
The
Church dedicated since its origins to St. Mary Madeline, was built at
the beginning of the 18th century.
The first chapel to the left is dedicated to St. Anthony; following is
that of St. Francis of Assisi with a beautiful wooden statue. The Sacristy
has a few painted medallions depicting the Madeline, St. John the Baptist,
St. Anthony of Padova and St. Francis of Assisi.
Over the high altar (completely in wood and restored in the 1930's) hangs
a large painting of the Assumption.
Beyond the small baptismal fountain that is in white marble, lay the remains
of the priest Giudice Bennardo (1826-1861); next is the chapel of the
Lady of Loreto with a wooden altar and a niche that shelters the legendary
lauretian statue brought to Vittoria in 11740 by Fra' Fedele and that
now is placed next to the altar of the Crucifix.
Among others, noteworthy are two canvases of unknown artists: an "Immaculate"
and the portrait of Fra' Gaetano La China.
The reliquary is an 18th century work of Carmelo d'Asta.
Next to the Church stands the monastery, used as a hospital from the beginning
of the 20th century until 1965.
The
Calvary
Built
in 1859 a few metres away from the previous one that was afterwards demolished,
it is a small temple, of circular plan with 2 neoclassical lateral juxtaposed
bodies that shelters at its base a chapel decorated with a few frescoes.
On its external walls there are 5 ceramic lunettes that illustrate scenes
of the crucifixion.
This particular construction is used for the "Mysteries of Good Friday"
called the "I Parti".
Modern Churches
The
Church of the Blessed Heart (Sacro Cuore - Piazza Daniele Manin) dates
back to the years following 1880; it shelters among other things, a canvas
of representing the "Lady of the Medallion" a work recognized
as being of Giuseppe Mazzone for its date and signature (1857).
A ruined canvas, "St. Peter and Paul" needing to be restored…
presents an interesting pictorial figurative composition that can be dated
back to the 18th century.
The Church of the Rosary (Via Fratelli Briganti, ang. Vicenza).
Built in the 1970's it bears a large canvas of the "Lady of Pompei"
of an unknown local artist.
Recent
churches are:
St.
John Bosco; the Holy Souls of Purgatory (which takes its name from the
old annexed cemetery (now the area of the sports field); the Lady of Tears;
St. Maria Goretti; the Assumption of Mary; the Holy Spirit and Saint Domenico
Savio.
Courtly
monumental edifices.
There
are several beautiful buildings that have fantastic, neoclassical, liberty
style decorations and sculptures, others are interesting for their magnificent
façade.
Palazzo Iacono Rizza, which today belongs to the City, was completed in
1880; since December 15, 1984 it is the site of the Town Hall.
Its walls shelter paintings of Matteo and Giocchino Santocono of Gela
(1895) and it can be found in Via Bixio. The building was designed by
professor Falcini of Florence in 1878.
The
City Park (Villa Comunale).
The
Villa is a beautiful arboreal monument that anciently was the Cappuccini
Vegetable Garden. It was aggregated to the Church in 1721 and given to
the City after 1866 becoming the City Park in 1933 overlooking the entire
Valley of the Ippari.
The
Fountain of the Gari' or of the Lions (La Fontana del Gari' o dei Leoni)
At
the end of the Via dei Mille stands a monumental fountain called "of
the Gari'" in homage to the benefactor that donated the Garden to
the Cappuccini along with the relative profits/supplies.
The
Cemetery.
Monumental
is the central part of the Cemetery whose construction began in 1890.
It was opened in 1896 substituting the old cemetery that had risen in
1840 in the area that is now covered by the sports field.
The cemetery also houses a chapel (1927) dedicated to the Hungarian prisoners
who died in Vittoria during the World War I.
The friendly relations between the City and the Hungarian government has
also brought to the opening of an Italo-Hungarian Museum, that can be
visited in the area of the ex-concentration camp inside the Emaia Fair
Citadel.
Emaia.
The
Emaia, an enormous trade fair with 4 distinct annual editions (two of
which coincide with the ancient fairs held for the St. John's Feast and
for the St. Martin's Feast), covers great part of the area surrounding
the ex-concentration camp built after the War of Libya (1911).
Various
Infrastructures.
The
City also has numerous sports, school and social infrastructures, including
2 large economical infrastructures: the Fruit-Vegetable Market in Contrada
Fanello and the Flower Market.
Archaeological
Industry Buildings
An
interesting example of an archaeological industry is the building that
used to house the electrical power station whose construction began in
1890 and that furnished energy for lighting from 1900 on. Built on part
of the area belonging to the St. Teresa's Monastery it is now abandoned.
Top
13.1
The small church dedicated St. Francis was built at the end of the 18th
century as a private chapel for the Marquis Ferreri, and was entitled
to the Holy Mary of Portosalvo.
With the ending of the feudality (1812) it was kept by the fishermen of
Scoglitti. Today the church is used only for the cult of "San Franciscuzzu",
a very small wooden statue of St. Francis of uncertain origins, provenance
and dating, but an object of great devotion for the community.
Holy
Mary of Portosalvo (Santa Maria di Portosalvo).
The
Church built in 1930 was restored about 10 years ago. The apsidal shelters
a large mosaic.
The Liberty Style.
Although
less abundant, it is possible to admire buildings in the style at Scoglitti
in: Via Amalfi, Via Regina Elena (n.17), Via Taranto, Via Domicolo (n.7)
and especially in Via Siracusa (n. 17, 19, 25).
On a hillock that overlooks the beach of Cammarana
rises the hunting lodge of the Pancari family, in liberty style but in
a state of abandon.
Top
Easter
- Good Friday- The Procession of Christ towards the Calvary (Piazza Sei
Martiri)
The
evening of Good Friday a sacred play 'I Parti' (the "mysteries")
is held; text of centenarian tradition by Alfonso Ricca (Vittoria).
Afterwards the Procession towards the Mother Church: the "coffin"
of Christ ("catalettu") is followed by the Lady of Sorrows (pierced
by a dagger) takes place.
24
June - 1st Sunday of July. Feast of the Patron Saint - St. John.
A
procession of the simulacrum takes place along the streets of the city;
plus folklore and sport-competitions ending with spectacular fireworks.
14 August: The Assumption.
The
Feast is celebrated at Scoglitti, besides the traditional Auction with
offerings of sweets and firstlings donated by the devoted, worthy of being
seen is the competition of the "Antinna a Mare" ("the stake
at sea").
Numerous barefooted-temerarious try to walk on a greased ships mast tied
horizontally to a boat at sea. The first person to grab the flag posted
at the end of the mast wins.
19th of March: St. Joseph
1st of May: St. Francis of Paola
22nd of May: St. Rita of Cascia
13th of June: St. Anthony of Padova
30th of June: The Blessed Heart
30th of July: St. Francis of Paola (at Scoglitti)
8th of December: The Immaculate Conception
13th of December: St. Lucia
SOCIAL-CULTURAL APPOINTMENTS:
EMAIA (four annual editions)
- St. Martin's and Summer Fair: a trade fair;
- Home Decorating and Fashion Showrooms;
- Agro industrial exposition
For unpublished free themed stories and poems.
Ninfa Camarina
L'angolo del Poeta
And more:
The Theatrical Season - the Film Clubs and Debates - the Concerts and the Conferences held by the various town cultural associations, ecc. make of Vittoria a city in continuous cultural and social growth. Top
Whoever visits Vittoria definitely must taste the numerous "specialties" of centenarian tradition and the world famous, controlled domination of origin, Cerasuolo Wine and Ciliegino Tomato.
Cerasuolo
Wine
It
is produced in the mesopotamic historical territory between Ippari and
Dirillo (they're rivers).
It's obtainable from "frappato's grape" and "nero d'Avola",
autochtone sicilian wine, that produce choice wines, with characteristic
colour and typical, unmistakable scente. It is advised to drink at 18°-20°
C.
It's combined to seasoned chees, red meats, tipycal area dishes, roats
and fishes, to vigorous taste exalting tastes and spices.
Ciliegino
Tomato
It
improved with age the leading role in our tradition cookery. In particulary
Ciliegino Tomato has carried in european tables, newness gust of wind.
In the "ragusano" territory, there are enormous quantitative,
in particular in Vittoria. This is a food that offers a modest quantity
of proteins, in fact we found it in hypocaloric diets. A lot of mineral
salts and also vitamins A, B1, B2 and above all C. It scientifically settled
that tomato holds the "licopene" a substance avallable to reduce
infart's risk and the incidence of some cancers. The "Ciliegino"
is a food fits at each taste. It can be take raw, tasting with wonderful
hors-d'oeuvres or salads otherswide done.
Among the first course dishes, remarkable are the ricotta cheese ravioli and the home-made pastas: lasagne, cavatieddi, pastrattata, mpanati and scaccie (focacce).
RAVIOLI: made of thin layered pasta and cheese ricotta filling they are cooked in salted boiling water and then 'covered' with meat and/or sausage sauce.
CAVATIEDDI: made out of a soft dough of flour and water and cut into small cylinder shaped pieces then pressed with a fork. They are served with meat sauce, peas or fresh ricotta cheese.
PASTRATTATA: a vegetable or legumes soup into which flour is slowing poured in order to form a creamy textured mixture then seasoned with olive oil.
MPANATI: typical Easter dish, formed by 2 circular disks of bread dough with a filling of vegetables, potatoes and lamb meat.
SCACCIE
(FOCACCIE):
Primarily a Christmas dish (but prepared all year round). The scaccie
are prepared with a very thin layer of bread dough rolled out into rectangular
sheets and filled to please: ricotta cheese and parsley; spinach and raisins;
tomatoes and onions; cauliflower; ecc.
They are baked to golden brown.
ARANCINI: a mixture of rice and meat sauce, with filling of meat, peas and cheese deep-fried in abundant oil.
Among the main course dishes: fish platters with grilled anciovi (sardines), fish soups, cold octopus salad, deep-fried fish, raw echinus (ricci), muscles au gratin, ecc.
The local "trigghiuledda", very young mullets covered with flour, basil and tomatoes cut into small dices and fried all together in a sort of flan are great.
Worth mentioning are the vavaluci and the vaccareddi (small and large snails) considered delicacies. They are boiled and seasoned with oil and crude oil, or cooked like a stew.
Among
the side dishes:
The famous Caponatina
(
sweet-sour caponata ) with aubergines, sweet peppers, celery, capers and
olives.
The
zucca
gialla
(squash) fried and seasoned with wine vinegar.
I cipudduzzi (lampasciuoli) - small bitter bulbs cooked in boiling water.
The can be eaten boiled and seasoned with olive oil, garlic and lemon
or made tastier if lightly fried with tomatoe sauce, vinegar and a dab
of sugar.
And now to the typical desserts that are prepared in the different periods of the year:
In September people prepare the cutugnata (a marmalade of quince-apples) made with boiled apples that are sieved and therefore cooked in equal parts with sugar. The marmalade then is put to dry out in various shaped terracotta moulds.
Coinciding with vintage time is the preparation of the mustata: wine worth cooked with superfine wheat bran flavoured with cinnamon and toasted hulled almonds. It is enjoyed hot or cold, after being dried out in terracotta moulds.
For St. Martin's Feast people prepare i friteddi (frittelle) sweet or salted doughnuts: a very soft dough made with flour and yeast that is deep-fried in much oil. The doughnuts are to be eaten hot.
At Christmas time you can enjoy turruni (torrone - a kind of nougat) and giurgiulena. The first is prepared by cooking equal parts hulled almonds and sugar on a high flame; the later by cooking sesame seeds and sugar in equal parts. When the sugar is completely melted, the mixture is poured out onto a oiled pastry board and then rolled out and cut into rhomboidal pieces.
I zuddi or almond cookies are prepared at Easter and at Christmas time.
Typical Christmas sweets are: i mastazzola (mustaccioli) made with cooked wine, water and flour and I cuddareddi (mucatoli) a more elaborate version of the mastazzola. Top